Is fine dining dead? That’s the wrong question
BRUNO VERJUS, the restaurant-critic-turned-chef, reignited an old debate in July when he announced he was shutting down Table, his two-Michelin-starred Paris restaurant. His provocation: “Fine dining is dead.” It was too exclusive. Too expensive. Too isolated from the realities of a world of pocketbook-conscious ordinary people. He wasn’t saying anything original.
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