There was a city here
I almost didn't notice the sign. Driving through Cheorwon on a research trip last July, we kept passing things that looked like landscape but weren't: a bridge that ended halfway across a river, a building with no roof, a railway disappearing into trees. There was a lot to see. There wasn't much left to see it. Our next stop, our guide said, was Gimhwa. The first thing I noticed was how beautiful…
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